Snow did not fall at night, and it was not particularly cold. At +5 degrees in a tent at an altitude of 5000 meters, I would rather call it warm than cold.

Today we are paying for yesterday's short day. We need to go through two passes, and in general the distance planned for the day is quite large.

The first pass, Jarkoi (5430m), is our ninth five thousandth pass. A fairly steep ascent with a relatively smooth descent into a wide valley. The pass is strewn with interesting stones - they seemed to be sharpened by worms, and trying to grind grooves in certain planes. The stones in color and texture are similar to volcanic tuff, but it seems that there was no volcanic activity in these parts. After the pass, a panorama of another piece of the border with Tibet opens, consisting entirely of six-thousanders covered with glaciers. Here the border is only 20 km away.

Fortunately, after the first pass, we dropped the altitude only to 4700 meters, which made it easier to climb the second. Yes, and in the valley, a quite bearable road was found (apparently, it connects the village of Charka Bot with the airfield, which is located higher in the valley). And then there was a long walk along the road to the village of Charka Bot.

After the pass, the stones, gnawed by worms, ceased to come across, but there were many stones that strongly resemble wooden chips. After all, the Himalayas are an amazingly diverse region.

The sun came out at lunchtime. I managed to sunbathe and recharge the power bank from the solar battery. For now, I have enough energy from the sun during lunch time to calmly charge the batteries of my phone and camera. For a long time I have not even tried to charge the power bank from any network in the village where we are staying for the night.

The village of Charka Bot, where we are staying today, is one of the most ancient human settlements in the area. It looks like an ancient stone bastion: the houses are built on a cliff above the river and are closely adjacent to each other. The windows facing the street are more like loopholes. Many houses have completely blank walls without windows, ten meters high.

There are two whole monasteries here: Bonpo and Buddhist. As usual, the monasteries feel abandoned. Once again I tried to find out from the "employee" of the Bon monastery how Bonpo differs from Buddhism. But he, like his colleagues in other monasteries, could not answer this simple question.